11 holiday ~ ~
 
Think back to the 11th edition, I have no time to engage in the space, work is too cumbersome, resulting in the loss of all the passion interior doors,wood doors,wooden doors out, just to have a place to vent or records under his own feelings can be, Everything from simple!

This year's 11 holiday life is depressing, seven-day holiday travel was cut down alive half, came back after the break is not enough, it can not on good fun of. This feel very sorry Mom, ah, the eldest child far from home, I look at running, the air with her even before I play well, is really guilty of is! Fortunately, there are old sister and at Ben Ben, has been to accompany the mother, Ganjitiling……

  

The only time trips is the last day of paternity leave Mom visited the Chaoyang Park, is the day the International Tourism Festival, was a lively, shoot some photos of the show, hee hee ~ ~

Front Door Interior - Feng Shui Tips The front door is very important part of a home's design and it sets the tone of the house. It's a connection between outer and inner world. If the main entry opens directly in the street, you may feel insecure or get disturbed easily by the noise in the street. In such cases a railing, plant, tree, or even a screen door or window can provide separation from the street. However, they should not hamper the flow of Chi by blocking the entry of house. The front door should have a proportionate connection with the back door to let the energy flowing. In case of no back door the energy gets trapped and if there is a back door, the energy can flow through quickly without providing nourishment of energy to the house. The goal should be to encourage adequate Chi to enter the house. And for that use plants, furniture, lights, paintings or other objects to create a curved corridor between the front and the back doors. You can also hang wind chimes, crystals, lights, fabric hangings, from the ceiling along in the corridor between the front and the back doors. In case the back door is solid, hang a mirror on it to rebound the Chi into the room. If the back door is made of glass, cover it and stop the Chi from leaving too quickly. To invite opportunities, eliminate Pvc Doors obstructions from the doorway and take away stored items from behind the door. If the door cannot fully open you may not get the full advantage of Chi and the objects that is behind the door may somehow limit your growth.

Pizzazz Your Front Door and More!

Want your front door to really "sing?� Then paint it a color to make it the outside focal point of your home.

Now, just what color would that be, you ask?

Here’s the way to know: Look at the color scheme you are using in your Interior Doors entry, living
and dining room. Would any of those colors look good with the exterior color of the
body of your house? Good. Then that’s your color. If you want to do a deeper, more
subdued version of it, that’s fine, too. But the whole idea is to give the front of your
house more pizzazz or presence and to make a connection between the outside and
the inside.

Now, don’t forget to paint the inside of the door! Leave your trim white or natural
wood stain but get the color on both sides of the door so your guests can make a
grand entrance and exit. Besides, it’s a great way to decorate the entry without
taking up any floor space so this works well for even small entries.

Once you have the right color, you now can play off that by adding plants or
furniture (even outdoors) and artwork inside. (Note: most entryways look better with
a large piece of art than a mirror that reflects the guest or another room. The only
exception is if it will reflect a view window.)

An area rug adds lots of color and style without taking up any floor space, so this is
possible even in a small entry. Be sure to check how thick of a rug your front door
will fit over. Usually rugs that are highly patterned and not too light or dark show
the least in a high traffic area.

Install That Entry Door Yourself

Five Steps to a Brand New Door

Door replacement is a task that any homeowner can complete, with basic skills, a few tools and patience. In fact, this can be a wonderful opportunity for the do-it-yourself person to learn a new task and save a bit of money that might otherwise be paid to a professional. The choice of a the correct door design and finish can change the look of a room, attract the visitor to the outside of the home, and also help keep the home airtight.

For basic understanding of this task, there are three types of doors: combination doors (screen/storm); entry doors; and interior doors. Five simple steps can lead the individual through the task of replacing an entry door. As most experienced homeowners know, mastering entry door replacement gives the individual the knowledge to replace interior doors (a simpler version of the entry-door technique).

Replacing a combination door follows the same steps as that for entry doors, but the process can be a bit more complex. Manufacturers generally provide good instructions and suggestions for installing combination storm/screen doors. Following these instructions carefully will usually lead to completion of the project with success (and reduced stress). Professionals at the home improvement center or hardware store can also be an excellent source for tips and suggestions.

But where should the do-it-yourself homeowner begin with installing doors? Here are five basic steps for the process, starting with:

Remove The Old Door

Careful removal of the old door is an important first step. After opening the door, place a wedge under the outer corner to take the weight off the door hinges. Remove the hinge pins and set the door aside. This door can be used as a pattern for trimming the new door if it has not been seriously damaged or if it isn't too badly warped.

Remove Hinge Leaves

The next step is to remove the hinge pieces from the frame. Depending on the desire to use existing hardware, these hinges can be reused or new ones can be substituted. Older hinges can be lightly buffed with fine sandpaper to restore some of the original appearance. Be sure the screws for the new hinges are long enough to reach into the stud behind the door frame.

Trim New Door

It would be wise to use the old door as a pattern for the new one. The alternative is to measure the door opening and allow a 1/8" bottom clearance as well as a 1/16" top and side clearance. The bottom clearance for a carpeted floor will probably have to be 3/4". Trim and plane door as necessary, using a fine-tooth saw and good plane.

Prepare New Door For Hinges

New areas must be carved out so the hinge blades can fit smoothly into the frame and door. Using the old door can help with proper location of hinges. A pencil outline of the hinge is essential for cutting this depression in the wood. Carefully chisel out the wood, with several cuts to the depth of the hinge leaf.

Home Inspection - 12 Common Areas of Defects

The Barrie Home Inspector discusses the twelve most common items found during a home inspection. These are items that are commonly found during a home inspection but are listed in any order of importance.

1. Lot and Roof Drainage

Keeping water out of your house in one of the most important areas to be considered in building design and annual maintenance checklists. Eave troughs collect large amounts of water, average is 160 gallons per hour, which is then directed down to ground level to be dispersed. This is where most systems have problems, from missing extensions to reversed splash pads, and it is important to ensure all water is directed away from your home. I have actually come across homes where the sump pump was pumping water out into China injection molding,laptop batteries the exterior corner of the house where the water ran right back down the foundation to be re-cycled again. Areas around foundations are prone to settling and should be built back up to ensure that any water will flow away from home.

2. Foundations

The primary function of the foundation is to transfer the load of your house unto your footings. Water can enter your home through cracks and holes in your foundation. Cement block foundations are required to be parged and then coated with damp proofing product to prevent this. Poured concrete foundations are required to have form holes sealed to prevent water entry. Minor cracks in foundations can be attributed to settlement of building or shrinkage cracks which would appear in poured concrete foundations. Any crack in your foundation is a potential source of water entry into your basement. If your area has excellent drainage and surface water is not an issue then sealing your cracks yourself could be an option, if not then a professional will seal poured concrete cracks using injected foam or epoxy for around 3 to 600 dollars. Sealing with epoxy will make the cracked area stronger than surrounding untouched area. Horizontal cracks in basements are stress cracks and usually should be inspected by engineer to ensure safety of the home.

3. Cladding

There are many types of cladding used in homes today, we are going to discuss brick veneer and vinyl siding, the most common types of cladding used in new homes in Barrie, ON.

Brick – There are two common types of brick in use today, clay and cement bricks, clay being the most expensive and more durable of the two. The most common defects in brick are caused by poor workmanship and settling of the house or foundation. Checking the brick work for cracks in mortar is very important part of your home inspection. Finding cracks prior to moisture and freezing damage occurring can drastically reduce the amount of work required to repair problem. Corbelled brick corners are an area where cracked mortar is very common but is an easy fix. Step cracks usually indicate a structural type problem is present and deeper investigation is required. Home owners can cause damage to bricks by building planters which allow soil to contact brick, this will result in spalling of brick face and eventually the brick will crumble and require replacement.

Vinyl Siding – This product has proven to be an attractive and low maintenance alternative to brick. If not properly installed vinyl siding can come loose which will make it very susceptible to damage. Properly installed siding has to be able to expand and contract without warping, this is done by not hammering in nails tightly and the fastening slot will allow siding to expand and contract with changing temperatures. Washing your vinyl siding spring and fall is also a good idea as this will help prevent staining from air borne contaminants. Vinyl siding is susceptible to cracking, especially in winter months when cold temperatures can make it extremely brittle.

4. Windows

Windows come in all sizes and shapes with many different types of opening models. We are going to concentrate on mainly the casement style window, as this is the type of window, which commonly has defects. Casement windows commonly have problems with the cranking mechanism. Stripped windows cranks are commonly found on windows in children’s bedrooms and are mainly due to the fact that in the winter these windows tend to freeze up and then when the crank is operated, a stripped mechanism results.

Broken seals in thermal units are another common defect found in windows. Windows around 15 years, and older, are usually found to have problems with leaking thermal units. There is a process that involves inserting tiny one-way vents into these units which can eliminate the moisture problem and save you money. The “R� value of windows is not so high that this procedure would create a huge heat loss.

Then there is the common defects in windows, which can include, no caulking, China doors cracked glass panes, improperly trims, sagging headers above windows, require painting and last but not least cracked or rotting wood.

5. Roof

We are going to concentrate on asphalt or fibreglass shingles as this is by far the most common type of product used in new homes today. Shingles can last anywhere from 15 to 25 years depending on quality of product and environment that they endure. Shingles on south side of home usually fail first due to greater exposure to sun and UV radiation. Proper venting is a very important factor that can greatly affect the life of your shingles. Building code requires 1 square foot of vents for every 300 square foot of roof. Ensuring adequate venting is important part of home inspection, a lot of homes have inadequate soffit venting due to insulation preventing continuous movement of air. This allows moisture and heat to build up in your attic and will dramatically reduce life of shingles. Inspecting flashing, valleys, skylights, vents and eave trough are another important factor of your home inspection. Ensure your inspector has a ladder and walks your roof if he is able.

6. Furnace / Air Conditioning

Furnaces have an estimated life span of 15 to 20 years and this can vary greatly with maintenance being the biggest factor in extending life of your furnace. Your furnace cannot have any holes, be rusted through in any area and must be hooked up to an approved venting system. If connected to a “B� vent, a one-inch clearance must be maintained from combustibles, which also includes insulation. Check your flame color, yellow flames indicate incomplete combustion which may be fixed with a simple tune up from your furnace technician. Many furnaces have no cap for filter cover which allows for both heat and cold air to escape into your basement. Your HVAC duct should be taped using metallic duct tape to block any areas where air is escaping from your system. Humidifiers are a common cause of water source for damaging furnaces; they become clogged and overflow allowing water to enter body of furnace causing premature failure of unit.

Central air conditioners are essentially a sealed unit. Using a temperature gauge can determine if unit is operating at a level that is acceptable. I use 58 degrees F as a bench mark in testing in hot weather. This ensures that unit will maintain your home at a comfortable temperature. All lines and insulation are checked for any damage or required replacement.

7. Electrical

The number one concern for homeowners and insurance companies is aluminum wiring. Installed in the early seventies as a substitute for high price copper, aluminum has generated a lot of negative press, some maybe not deserved. Knowledge of aluminum wire is required to be disclosed by the home seller. Consequently some people are creatively hiding aluminum wiring. This might involve installing wire so insulation covers all exposed wire and running copper from main panel to junction boxes where it is connected to the existing aluminum wire.

Adding pony panels, which allowable and recommended, is a great way of expanding your main panels resources. I came across one pony panel, full sized 100 amp, which was powered off supply cables in switch box. This panel was noted in listing as an asset! There are a myriad of minor electrical problems to be checked in your home. Another main panel observation is that many people rather than add a breaker just attach two or more wires to an existing breaker, this is a not permitted and is a potential fire risk. Open junction boxes, missing covers, wiring contacting heat ducts and un-supported wiring are common defects noted on majority of inspections.

8. Plumbing

The other half of the keeping water away from your house equation is your interior plumbing system. Lack of caulking and sub-standard products or workmanship is also a big offender when it comes to keeping your house dry. Galvanized pipe is another item that insurance companies may be concerned about. Galvanized pipe tends to corrode from the inside out leaving no visible signs of impending failure, which tends to make insurance companies a little nervous about insuring homes with galvanized plumbing.

9. Insulation

Homes today have a much higher insulation R-value than older models, the standard for your attic insulation is R-32. Coupled with vapor barriers this is a very important part of your homes building envelope. Many homes have lots of insulation but it has been compromised by workmen installing products such as pot lights and never remedied. The un-suspecting homeowner never realizes the loss of heat and release of moisture that is taking place. I have inspected homes where there has been sun rooms added on and for two or more years that complete area has not had any insulation.

Vermiculite insulation is receiving a lot of attention due to asbestos hazard. Most vermiculite was produced from Libby mine in Montana and contains asbestos. There is some type of vermiculite that has no asbestos risk, which can only be determined by laboratory testing. Homeowners are obligated to disclose any vermiculite insulation that they know of. This is another area where your home inspector can help and possibly save you a lot of money and headaches.

10. Mould or Mold

We are addressing both Canadian and American mould or mold problems, eh!

Mold has been a inspection headliner for quite a number of years. Mold is present everywhere, outside, in your home and sometimes even in the wood you are building with. Moud requires three items to grow, they are; warm environment, protein supply (paper on drywall will do) and moisture. As you can see if you have any water or moisture problems in your home for any length of time then you probably have mold somewhere in your home. That is why it is so important to keep water out of your home and control the water you do have in your home by the proper use of exhaust vents, HRV units and humidity control.

11. Structural

The structural component of your home includes all the items that comprise the supporting elements of your home, which include but are limited to; footings, floors, foundation, walls, columns and piers and roofing system. Visual inspection involves looking for cracks, missing supports, under-sized support construction, twisted or cracked beams, joists, rafters, trusses or support members. Consider your structure as the exterior and interior framework that encompasses your home. Defects in this system can be considered serious and should not be taken lightly as you whole home depends on this system.

12. Miscellaneous

Here is a quick list of some of the items that I have come across that might not have been discussed above:

Septic tanks – Water pooling at the end of your bed or signs of effluent leaking are sure signs that you have some kind or septic bed problem. Buyer beware!
Chimney – Masonry chimneys can be visually ok but not approved for type of appliance you are using. Wood stoves and fireplaces usually require WETT cert for insurance.
Caulking – Any two different surfaces that are exposed to weather should be caulked. For example your window and siding should always be caulked.
Trees – Ensure there are no dead trees on property that might damage your house or any of your neighbor's property. Also trim branches away from any siding or roofing product.
Concrete Steps – Must be either cantilevered or on frost footing.
Handrails – Required to be 900 mm high in most exterior applications.
Decks – If over 23 5/8 inches (600mm) from ground are required to have guards & handrails.
Basement Bedrooms – Required to have separate exit on same level or window that is minimum area of 0.35 M2 with no dimension being less than 15 inches (380 mm).
Bathrooms – shall have either exhaust fan or opening window.
Hot Water Heater – Safety Pressure valve shall have vent directing blow-off to floor.
Garages – Required to have fume barrier and auto door closure if interior door installed.

These are just some of the common types of defects encountered during a residential home inspection, there are thousands of items that could possibly be identified.